What got Billy's goat?

Billy Arjan Singh died a few days ago. A man I didn’t know, but always wanted to meet – which is why I regret that I now never can. I no longer am much of a reader, and of the little that I do read, wildlife is a popular subject. Mr. Singh’s stories with Prince and Tara and the rest of the mixed herd always keep me wishing that I could catch a glimpse of that life, if not live it myself.

I am now travelling abroad, doing a long stint on work, and have been contemplating writing a blog – I thought it would keep me busy, and possibly capture some of the experiences I may have. However, with my heart in the Indian jungles, I find it apt that I begin with my first blog now.

Recent visits to some of the jungles of South India leave me angry and upset. Most of the tourists one encounters are rowdy, noisy and boisterous groups, trying to prove to each other that each of them is most capable of scaring the mightiest of animals away. And the small minority of well behaved, civilized tourists is far too well behaved to sit up and take notice, they mind their own business and walk on, possibly muttering that India’s wildlife is in shambles. The forest department is no better either, barring perhaps a very small handful.

The shy langurs have dangerously ventured on to the roads because they are used to receiving food from tourist vehicles

Forest officers who drive their jeeps through the forests at top speed and top volume, are flattered by hordes of “wildlife photographers” who pacify them to get special permissions to enter restricted areas. What else will they do – the common areas are full of ill-mannered humans who cannot leave the forests to themselves, and it’s impossible to rightfully enjoy nature without the noise and commotion caused by the numerous tourists visiting the area. Of course, it is also a matter of pride that they get a rare frame, which could only be rare if they have exclusive access. Expensive lenses and digital technology does the rest, and the skill required to get a good picture takes a backseat.

A home of a government employed forest officer would leave the most imaginative minds astonished. Ornately decorated in teak, rosewood and marble, it is clear that the recent postings have been rather lucrative for the ranger, as well as his mother, wife, aunt and so on – these are typically the names used to register expensive real estate. The job is easy, and the perks include throwing your weight around. Rules are always rules, unless you are closely associated with someone in the department, in which case you find yourself at the end of a long line of vehicles entering the core restricted areas of the forest to catch a glimpse of rarer wildlife. If these favours were granted keeping in mind the behaviour of the group in the jungle, it could be forgiven as there is no other way these people can enjoy the serenity of the forest the way it is meant to be. However, more often than not, most of the special access is available to a group of brightly dressed, screaming, honking dimwits usually related to the local politician in power.

Typical scene of hassling an elephant tempting it to charge to get a few shrieks and thrills from the passengers

Despite well-illustrated instructions, neither the educated tourist nor the forest department pays any attention

The stories from central India are no different, and I often hear that a tiger sighting is accompanied with 30-40 jeeps packed with excitable tourists and guides who live by the motto that “customer is king”. The animals seem dangerously complacent about the presence of humans nearby, and this could certainly not be a good sign.

A vehicle reversing into a spotted deer - what can I say?

While tourism is definitely a good thing, there should be laws to keep in check irresponsible tourism. And the people who care should speak out – as they are the last hope.

An educated conscientious person would understandably stay out of the government. It would be very difficult to fight the corruption alone, and if he did, he would definitely be transferred as fast as possible. On the other hand, why would an educated person want to choose to work in a place where he is bound to earn less money, unless he treads the trodden path like all the others around him? That would only be possible if he is backed by a rich family, and the lucky few who are blessed with this have other things to do it seems.

Like a good friend often says, the jungles were left alone much more when the brigand Veerappan was around. Perhaps the jungles need another brigand today, one that takes it upon himself to take to task all the corrupt politicians, irresponsible travel operators and noisy tourists. A revolution is necessary, much the same way Billy Arjan Singh once stood up to all the officials who came his way.